Nothing complicates a nautical play day like an anchored boat breaking loose; a captain careening into a dock; or a vessel banging in its berth like a bumper car.
Docking and anchoring are basic skills that can strain captain-first mate relationships; ruin outings; cause injury and property damage; and brand boaters as outcasts.
There’s no substitute for patience, practice and teamwork but here’s a primer to lead you in the right direction.
Preparation Is a Priority
Before hull meets water, outline everyone’s onboard role (even if it’s to sit down and stay quiet), and gather dock lines, fenders (or bumpers), anchors and their chains and lines. The bigger the boat, the heavier the dock line and the more needed. Which anchor to buy depends on the size and weight of the vessel and where it’s used.
Boatus.org/onlinecourse describes these common anchor types:
* Danforth – two pivoting flukes dig well into mud or hard sand;
* Plow – resembles the farming tool and holds in sand, rocks, grass or weeds;
* Claw or Bruce – like a plow but with curved flukes;
* Navy or kedge – more traditional style usually seen on larger ships;
* Mushroom – ideal for small boats and waters without strong currents or waves;
* Grapnel – grasps rocks and good for jon boats and canoes.
Swinging, Setting, Dragging
Set your boat to swing offshore on a single bow anchor or add a stern anchor and back up to land. Don’t motor over anyone’s anchor line lest your propeller slice it and get entangled.
Select a spot that doesn’t crowd neighboring boats, stop your vessel with a short burst in reverse, then drop anchor manually or with a windlass. Once the anchor hits bottom, back slowly until it tugs and resists the boat’s reverse motion, then give it a little power – still in reverse – for a secure set. Repeat the process if the anchor drags.
Once settled, set the anchor alarm (if you have one) and check periodically to make sure the boat isn’t moving beyond the limits of its anchor line(s). When it’s time to leave, move your bow directly over the anchor. If that doesn’t uproot it, slowly drive forward.
Spring Lines, Docking Duties
Before slowly approaching a dock, ready at least two lines on the docking side. Slip the line’s end loop (eye splice) through the boat cleat and around each end, then tighten. Some boaters leave their lines like that when underway, but the free end could slide overboard and foul the prop.
Small and mid-size boats usually require four lines: one each on the bow and stern, and two spring lines, according to “Chapman Piloting.” Springs help eliminate rocking.
When the boat gets close enough, have someone hop onto the dock and secure at least one, preferably two, lines around dock cleats or pilings. Or toss a line or two to a helper already on the dock.
Here are other tips:
* Unless you need gasoline or diesel, don’t tie up to the fuel dock.
* Use fenders – plastic air-filled tubes – to cushion contact with other vessels, piers, pilings, docks and seawalls. Hang fenders from boat cleats or railings, or position them on surfaces within a wet slip.
* Consider wind and current when mooring, and monitor the weather.
* For anchorages with offshore mooring buoys, slowly approach the float, snare it with a boat hook and attach it to a forward cleat on the vessel.
Related Videos:
- How to Dock a Boat?
- How to Buy a Boat?
- How to Park a Boat?
- How to Sell a Boat?
- How to Buy a Used Boat?
